When the owner’s of Seattle’s renowned Kokéb restaurant, Yeshi and Belete Shiferaw, arrived in Seattle 30 years ago, they were one of around 35 Ethiopian families living in the city.

Since then, Seattle’s Ethiopian population has grown to over 25,000, making it one of the largest in the United States.

With its grey skies and rainy climate, Seattle is 8,300 miles and worlds away from Addis Ababa, Ethiopia’s capital city and the Shiferaws’ hometown.

In 1974, Ethiopia’s emperor Haile Selassie was overthrown, causing many to flee the country. Belete Shiferaw’s father, a member of Selassie’s parliament, was imprisoned during the takeover.

From left, Belete and Yeshi Shiferaw. Photo by Inye Wokoma

“It was a very difficult time. A lot of people died,” says Belete Shiferaw over lentil sambusas at the Capitol Hill restaurant, named for “star” in Amharic.

Belete fled to Sudan where he met and married Yeshi, also a refugee, and the couple immigrated to Seattle in 1980. The regime fell in 1991 and the Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia (FDRE) was founded in 1995.

The present government, led by Prime Minister Meles Zenawi, has been accused of rigged elections, as well as the suppression of widespread government opposition.

In 2010, the Economist’s Democracy Index identified Ethiopia’s current leadership as an authoritarian regime. The Shiferaws still hope to someday return to Ethiopia, but their children’s strong American roots keep them anchored to their family restaurant, which has served Seattle delicious Ethiopian cuisine and culture for three decades.

Ethiopian staples include injera, a pancakelike sourdough bread made with teff flour which doubles as an eating utensil. Diners gather around a communal platter, ripping off spongy pieces of injera and using it to scoop up mouthfuls of wat and alecha – traditional stews made with various meats, lentils, and vegetables.

Berbere, a seasoning derived from red peppers, gives Ethiopian food its distinctive spicy flavor. Yeshi and Belete Shiferaw share their family recipe for doro wat, or chicken stew. Wat dishes can also be made with vegetables, lamb, beef, or seafood.

 “The chicken, it takes a long time to cook and you only make it with chicken for a very respected guest,” Belete said. “Traditionally it’s a very, very special dish.”